Re-connect the BW and RB wires using a commercially available, high quality, waterproof, 2-pin connector. The 2-pin, waterproof connectors are not available from Mitsubishi Motors. Obtain the connectors from a reputable electronics supplier. Before re-connecting the A connector, clean out each terminal end using a point cleaner. After cleaning the terminal ends and insulating the two wire ends, re-connect the A connector. Install the air filter base, air filter, and sensor housing.
Re-connect the airflow sensor wiring harness, tighten the airflow sensor rear clamp, and secure the air filter clips. Re-connect the negative battery terminal, set the clock and radio, and verify that the vehicle starts and runs normally. I made the repairs outlined in the TSB and charged him a little over an hour labor. Kris picked up his car in plenty of time make his date.
I guess the date went well. One year later, they got married. All trademark names and model designations are being used solely for reference and application purposes. All rights reserved. All other marks are the property of their respective holders. You get instant access to product and account support.
For our retail site, please visit: www. An Company. All other marks are property of their respective owners. All Rights Reserved. All other marks are the property of the their respective holders.
Cleanup Navigation link. May 22, Read more. April 2, Mike answered 6 years ago. Okay, I've had a couple of my Toyota vehicles with the same issue. Starts great, drive it someplace, shut if off, come back in 5 mins, then nothing, not even a click.
In my case it was the two pickups in the bottom of the distributor. I can't say for sure this is your problem. Do you have any check engine lights? Okay, if it's making a grind sound, that's the starter not engaging all the way out. I take it the starter is original? I think I may know the problem.
Try replacing your Engine Coolant Temp sensor. Something is telling your cars computer that the engine is cold when in fact it's hot. That's why it starts fine when cold, but dies when hot. The computer dumps more fuel to the engine when cold. Then over the last couple months it started happening more often and it would take longer and longer to crank it up.
Sometimes i would hold it in start possition and nothing but after a few sec it would crank but not it wont start at all, Just click,click,click! I have nightmares about that freakin click. I need my car back. Its a 94 gt sl manual,. Check you battery connections.
These cars are known for issues with the frame and motor negative battery connections becoming lose or corroded. Also check the small wire going to your starter. Sometimes the female connection becomes loose or corroded causing the same issue.
Remove wire squeeze female connector easily with pliers to tighten it the plug if back up. Also on the back of the switch in steering column there are two small screws that hold the harness to the switch.
These become loose some times. Thanx for reply. Replaced the ground and like clockwork for the first time in a month she fired right up. I was so happy except now I'm back to my original problem when its cold she cranks right up with no hesitation but as soon as the motor is warmed up she won't start. Cranks fine, plenty of juice, but won't start. Almost every time it will almost start for a second then stall then nothing. OK so after thinking about this for a while it is possible that I have a leaking injector but I just put brand new s in before it stopped cranking and the problem hasn't changed for better or worse.
I started exploring to find at my surprise oil sprayed everywhere inside my timing cover. Not very thrilled noing exactly whar lies in my near future.
I check the rear bank and sure enough the crank seals on both sides front and back are leaking oil. So now that I'm about to start that project is there any advice or things I should no bfor tearing into the motor. Except how much a pita my timing belt is goin to b. And also do u think the oil on my timing belt is the cause of my no restart problem.
Its possible maybe but I'm not convinced that when I get through with this that the nightmare is over yet. Thank u for ur thoughts and expertise on this. I love my car and my hood has been up for two months now and it is killing me! Sounds like your cam shaft seals or crank shaft seals are bad causing the oil issue. Oil could be causing an issue with either you crank or cam positions sensors both are under the timing cover. And the cam sensor is on the back bank. When you have a no start issue again use timing light to check for spark.
If no spark then look at testing your cam and crank sensors for signal. If you have spark then check for fuel pressure. Bad fuel pressure regulator could cause this to. How many miles since your last timing belt change? If unsure then I advise to start thinking about replacing it and your water pump. You can then replace the cam and crank seals. But don't get in a hurry because if you install your belt incorrectly you will bend valves and have to replace them too. Don't give up on her. These are great cars you just have to stay on top of the maintenance issues.
If yours is equipped with an egr valve might want to check it. Cause if it is sticking open you will have a no start issue. Also what grade gas are you using. You must use the highest grade octane you can get for you engine to preform properly. Sorry for rambling on. Hope some of this helps.
0コメント